Mourvèdre, the dark knight of Bandol, rich and boldly expressive of all things Provence, relinquishes the center stage here and shares the spotlight with the more delicate, floral, and fresh Cinsault. This is a rare marriage in red Bandol (Cinsault is usually a key player in rosé rather than rouge), from an even rarer terroir for the region, high on the hills, deep in a pine forest, far from it all. As is often the case, the Migoua this year is the most forward and open-tasting single vineyard from Tempier, where its tinge of rosemary, wisp of anise, and hint of smoke combine for a glass full of deliciousness.

—Chris Santini