Jean-Philippe Fichet of Meursault (on whose superb 2006 collection I shall soon publish detailed notes) achieves excellence even in un-exalted appellations, as witness his 2006 Bourgogne Aligote. Loaded with aromas and flavors of toasted nuts and grain, and exhibiting an almost carnal depth, as well as palpable citrus zest pungency and chalky minerality, this is not one of those wines from Burgundy’s under-rated, “lowly” white variety about which one says “you’ll never guess it’s not Chardonnay.” On the contrary, it delivers Aligote in all of its intense if slightly rustic virtues. Enjoy it over the next 18-24 months, and attend to its compatibility with bitter vegetables and the fascinating counterpoint it can offer to rich seafood sauces.

100% Aligote./ ABV 12.5%